Design of cotton and cotton polyester stretch denim

October 28, 2023

The diversification of raw materials and the comfort of fabrics will be the development trend of denim fabrics. The cotton-cotton polyester stretch fabric developed under this concept is made of hemp yarn and hemp slub yarn as warp, polyester-coated spandex yarn and hemp-span spandex slub yarn as weft-knitted bamboo elastic denim. It not only has the excellent moisture absorption and permeability of hemp cotton, but also has the high strength, wear resistance and wrinkle resistance of polyester.

1 Selection of raw materials

1.1 hemp cotton yarn

Hemp-cotton blended yarns are generally not very good. Single yarns have low strength and high impurities. In order to make the weaving go smoothly, the breaking strength and strong CV value of the hemp blended yarn should meet the following requirements: single yarn breaking strength ≥9.5cN/tex, single yarn breaking strength cV value ≤8%. The blending ratio of the cotton-spun blended yarn is 55:45, 80:20, 60:40, etc., and can be selected as needed.

1.2 Slub yarn

According to the style of the products developed, the slub yarn is required to be just right in terms of performance. It is necessary to ensure the strength of the slub yarn, reduce the hairiness and reduce the number of knots, and ensure the smooth progress of the dyeing and weaving. The surface is smooth, and the slub yarn for the weft yarns must ensure that there is no overlap on the cloth surface.

1.3 spandex

The elasticity of the spandex yarn is related to the draw ratio of the spinning, and the greater the draw ratio, the better the elasticity. Considering the stability of the final fabric width and shrinkage and the comfort of the fabric. The 70 D spandex yarn is used to make the fabric elastic.

2 Organizational design

Warp: A 58.3 tex (Ne 10) hemp cotton yarn: 97.2 tex (Ne 6) hemp cotton slub yarn. The blending ratio of the hemp-cotton blended yarn is 55:45, and the ratio of the ratio of the warp to the warp is 4:1.

Weft yarn: A latitude 200 D+70 D polyester-coated spandex elastic yarn; B latitude 58.3 rex+70 D hemp cotton spandex slub yarn. The ratio of the weft to the latitude is 4:1.

The structure of the fabric: Generally, the loose tissue with less warp and weft interlacing points should be selected, which will help to exert the elastic elongation of the fabric, and 2/1? is selected to facilitate the lateral shrinkage of the fabric.

Side tissue: 1/1 weft weight, the cloth edge should be wider than the general non-stretch fabric to prevent curling.

Warp and weft density: 68 × 46 roots / inch of fabric, 78 × 50 / inch of finished product.

Width: 175 cm, 162 cm grey fabric, 140 cm finished product.

3 Weaving process

Winding → warping → pulp dyeing → piercing → weaving → initial inspection → finishing → re-examination → roll packaging → warehousing.

3.1 Winding

The 1332M type winder is used. The main points of the winding process are as follows:

1) A warp yarn adopts electronic yarn clearer to remove weak flaws, details, neps and impurities in the yarn to facilitate the smooth progress of the subsequent dyeing process and improve product quality. The warp yarn does not use the electronic yarn clearer, and slightly reduces the winding speed. At the same time, the weight of the tension disc is increased, and the spider web phenomenon which occurs due to the speed reduction and the small tension can be avoided.

2) A warp yarn winding speed of 750 ~ 780 m / min, tension disc weight 28 ~ 30 g; B warp yarn speed 640 ~ 700 m / min, tension disc weight 34 ~ 36 g, winding density 0.43 ~ 0.47 g / Cm.

3.2 Warping

The single fiber of the SGA 211 warping machine has a finer fineness and a smooth surface. Therefore, the cohesive force between the fibers of the cotton-spun blended yarn is small, especially the weak ring is more, resulting in more broken ends during warping. Therefore, the production process of high resurgence, low tension and low speed is adopted in actual production. The ground can be sprinkled around the warping creel. Conditional spray can be added to the wet device to increase the relative humidity. The strength of the cotton blended yarn is greatly increased. The layered segments are evenly applied with tension, and the tension should be reduced compared to the same number of pure cotton yarns. The warping speed should not be too high, especially the slub yarn contains regular thick joints and details. The high speed and high pressure cause the warp beam surface to be uneven.

According to the actual production situation, it can be adjusted to a minimum of 250 m/min. At the same time, in order to reduce the twisting of the yarn between the cheese and the tensioner when the warping machine is stopped, a shorter yarn guiding distance should be adopted.

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Author:

Mr. Yang

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